Even if the garment first function is to protect its wearer, through the ages some new faculty as a social window, allowing to communicate with others about what we really are : our tastes, our humour, our personnality, our identity… Technologies and digitals innovations revolutionnized activity sectors as well as they tranformed the fashion industry. These news technologies give a brand new creative dimension to fashion designers’ creations and redefined the use of a garment. The data digitalization and the surexposition of our private informations, some creators choose to minimized this trend by focused on our intimacy in order to discover oneself and protect its privacy.
Today we introduce to you the 7 projects exhibited during the second edtition of the Look Forward FashionTech Festival which are about the link between the intimacy and the society.
Anti-survaillance Coat – Kovr
The aim of the creation of the Anti-Syrveillance Coat by the collective Kovr, formed by Marcha Schagen and Leon Baauw, was to drawn our attention to the difficulty of controlling our own personal data. With the birth of the internet, there was a large diffusion of information and personal data which give to anyone the opportunity to get and use these types of information to their own will. This coat protects its wearer to the “overinformation” sphere. It keeps you safe from radio waves and radiation by using metalliferous fabrics that shield the computer chips in cards, clothind and car keys. Nevertheless, the coat has a pocket to keep your phone on.
Aposematic Jacket – Shinseungback Kimyonghun
Some innovations in the fashion world reflect current societal problems. Indeed, the omnipresence of some problems pushes the creators to find out how to fix these. With the Aposematic jacket, Shinseungback Kimyonghun wanted to develop something that would push away attackers in order to avoid any violence. In 2016, approximately 8 people out of 1,000 French people have been victims of violence and that figure has increased by 4% compared to the previous year (Cf Le Figaro). So, there is no surprise to learn that many innovations have been developed to reduce these statistics. As the name of the jacket indicates, the creation is inspired by the system of protection of certain animals. Indeed, aposmatism refers to the fact of preventing its predator that we are a potential danger by signals such as a bright color. In order to curb attempts at aggression, the designer added several cameras to the jacket. They warn the attacker that he may be photographed if he tries to attack the wearer. Actually, this one can trigger all the devices by pressing a single button. It will be able to capture the scene in 360 ° and broadcast it automatically on the Internet. Beyond serving as a security guarantee, the jacket could, in the near future, become a sinequanone condition to the processing of insurance records in case of aggressions or thefts.
Enlightenment – Birce Ozkan & Betty Quinn
Another creation exposed during the Look Forward FashionTech Festival 2017: Enlightenment by Birce Ozkan & Betty Quinn. The artists wanted to make a garment to reconnect with ourselves and to expresses the condition of the human body – emotionally and physiologically. It is through the beating of the butterfly’s wings of the skirt that the garment transcribes the mood of its wearer. The skirt is connected to an electroencephalography (EEG) helmet which collects brain activity data and activates the two servomotors of the butterfly. The higher the meditative state of the wearer, the faster the butterfly’s wings flap.
Chameleon Scarf – Neffa
Like the Aposematic jacket by Shinsenugback Kimyonghun, the scarf created by Aniela Hoitink, alias Neffa, is directly inspired by animal survival instincts. For this creation, Neffa takes her inspiration on the behavior of chameleons which, according to the surrounding colors, the temperature as well as its psychological state changes color. Like the chameleon skin, the Chameleon Scarf changes its appearance to communicate the wearer’s condition and adapt to his or her needs. The creation changes according to the mood and the temperature felt by its wearer, allowing to visualize his needs before he even realizes it! The thermochromic black ink disappears when the temperature of the body increases as a result of intense emotion. The green part of the scarf, printed with photoluminescent ink, is sensitive to light. White is printed with photochromic ink that reacts to UV lights. Thus, the white changes very slowly to become orange according to the intensity of the UV rays.
Synapse Dress – Anouk Wipprecht
After presenting her Spider Dress at the Look Forward FashionTech Festival 2016, Anouk Wipprecht returned to the 2017 edition with a new creation: the Synapse Dress. The result of an unexpected combination of 3D printing and Neurotechnology, the dress captures the moods and the behavior of its wearer thanks to sensors and an electroencephalographic helmet. Then, it analyzes these statistics to make them visible through an integrated lighting system. Thus, if the wearer feels a strong emotion, a concealed camera records the reasons for this reaction.
Can’t from« Can’t & Won’t » – Ying Gao
The series of dresses “Can not & Will not” by Ying Gao draws its inspiration from microbial life. These creations are activated according to a facial expressions recognition system. To be able to admire the delicate movements of dresses, visitors had to adopt a “poker face”. While we are used to associate communication with expression – oral or visual – the artist has allowed us to discover a language that can only be born in absolute restaint and silence.
Issho – Pauline van Dongen
Unlike the creations we have been able to present to you previously in this article, the following creation encourages social interaction and pushes its wearer to enjoy its privileged moments. In collaboration with ItalDenim, Pauline van Dongen created a jacket connected in denim. More than a jacket, Issho is a real reassuring presence for the wearer. Integrating conductive yarns that make it sensitive to touch, the jacket records the interactions of its wearer. Thanks to small vibration motors located on the upper part of the back, the jacket promotes reassuring caresses allowing the wearer to feel more confident, thus establishing a special link between the jacket and the person who wears it. Try it and adopt it!
Many artists have been inspired by social fears and use technologies as solutions to isolate themselves. Others want to maintain the ties that gather people in order to recreate a social proximity often alienated by technology. If the initial function of the garment was to protect our body, this one has been transposed and amplified to cover what we are and sometimes even increase our abilities, making us supermen.